Method of drafting garment-patterns.



No. 758,826. PATENTED MAY 3, 1904. E. J. GURRAN.

METHOD OF DRAFTING GARMENT PATTERNS.

APPLIOATION FILED JULY 16,1897.

H0 MODEL. 6 SHEETSSHEET 1.

No. 758,826. PATENTED MAY 3, 1904. E. J. GUBRAN.

METHOD OF DRAFTING GARMENT PATTERNS.

APPLICATION FILED JULY 16, 1897..

N0 MODEL. 6 SHEETS-SHEET 2.

Md JC'ur-rm No. 758,826. PATENTED MAY 3, 1904. E. J. GURRAN.

METHOD OF DRAFTING GARMENT PATTERNS.

APPLIOATION FILED .TULY16,1897.

no MODEL. 6 su ars-sum a.

Fig.3!

No. 758,826. PATENTED MAY 3. 1904.

' E. J. GURRAN.

METHOD OF DRAFTING GARMENT PATTERNS.

APPLICATION FILED JULY 16,1897.

N0 MODEL. 6 SHEETS-SHEET 4.

M7 416 7 33m urran) No. 758,826. PATBNTED MAY 3, 1904. E. J. GURRAN.

METHOD OF DRAFTING GARMENT PATTERNS.

APPLICATION FILED JULY 16, 1897.

N0 MODEL. 6 sums-sum a.

m: mam-us PETERS co. wmouwo. wunmumw. o. c.

No, 758,826. PATENTED MAY 3, 1904. E. J. GURRAN.

METHOD OF DRAFTING GARMENT PATTERNS. APPLICATION rman JULY 15, 1897. noxonnn. a snnmssnnnr 6.

mirmfmms PETERS :0. were mus UNITED STATES fPatented May 3, 1904.

PATENT OFFICE.

METHOD OF DRAFTING GARMENT-PATTERNS.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 758,826, dated. May 3,1904.

Application filed July 16, 1897. Serial No. 644,781- (NO model.)

To a IIJ/I/OIIZ/ it may concern:

Be it known that I, EDWARD J AMES CURRAN, cutter, a subject of the Queenof Great Britain and Ireland, residing at Bathurst, in the Colony of NewSouth W ales. have invented a certain new and useful Invention entitledMethod of Drafting Garment-Patterns, of which the following is aspecification.

This invention relates to drafting garmentpatterns; and it consists inan improved method whereby the pattern for a person or figure to befitted is obtained by accurately reproducing certain transversecontour-lines of the figure in flexible strips or mold-wires,maintaining the proper relative positions and distances of said wires,and transferring the curves or contour-lines so obtained to apattern-sheet, which is cut on such lines to form the several templetsof the entire pattern.

In carrying out the invention suitable strips or wires of lead or otherflexible but inelastic material adapted to bend into and retain anydesired form and hereinafter referred to as mold wires are bent aroundthe figure or person being fitted on the horizontal and certain othercurves on which measurements are usually taken and are cut to properlengths by nippers or wire-cutters. A mold or model of approximately thehalf-section onlyof the body of the person being fitted is usuallytaken, the mold-wires extending substantially from the middle verticalline at theback to the middle vertical line at the front; but afull-section mold of the arm is taken. The mold-wires may be held inproper relative position, and the curves or contour-lines representedthereby may be transferred to the pattern-sheet by any suitable means.As herein represented, adjacent pairs of the mold-wires in successionare arranged in marking carriers or frames which hold them at the samedistance apart and in the same relative positions assumed by them whenfitted around the figure; Each carrier or frame, thus having twoadjacent mold wires set therein in positions corresponding to thecontour-lines which they represent, is rolled over or applied to thepattern-sheet of paper or othermaterial or rolled over a flat surface,from which the pattern is afterward traced, and the lines traversed bythe wires held by said carrier are marked or penciled thereon in anysuitable way. The paper or pattern sheet is then out along these lines,and the several templets or transverse sections obtained are assembledin proper relation and form the whole pattern for one-half the figure.hen the several transvere sections' or templets of the pattern are thusassembled in proper vertical order, as shown in Figure 23, the piecesmay be cut across, and the cut pieces may be secured together at theiradjacent horizontal edges to form the usual vertical pattern-templets,as shown in Fig. 22.

The invention will first be described .with reference to theaccompanying drawings, which form a part of this specification, and willthen be pointed out more particularly in the annexed claims.

In said drawings, Fig. 1 is a conventional representation of a figure ormodel in front view, indicating the mode of placing the moldwiresthereon. Fig. 2 is a similar side view showing the mode of setting saidmold-wires. Fig. 3 represents a plan of the mold-wires or the curvesobtained by the wires as molded in Figs. 1 and 2 and in their properrelative positions. Figs. 4,5, 6, 7, and 8 are similar views,respectively, of the collar and shoulder wires, shoulder and breastwires, breast and waist wires, waist and hip wires, and wires formed tothe curves of the hip and lower edge of the coat. Fig. 9 is a side viewof a marking-carrier supporting the collar and shoulder wires, and Fig.10 is a plan view thereof. Fig. 11 is a plan view of a carrier holdingthe breast and waist wires, and Fig. 12 is a perspective view of thesame. Fig. 13 is a side view of a carrier holding the shoulder, breast,and scye wires;-and Fig. 14 is a plan view thereof with the partsholding the shoulder and breast wires omitted, leaving only theattachment for the scye-wire. Fig-.15 is an enlargcd'side View, partlybroken away "and partly in sec"- tion; and Fig. 16 is an enlargedfragmentary plan view illustrative of the construction'of themarking-carriers. Fig. 17 is a side"eleva tion of the vertical frame orstandard'with the double-jointed pointers supportedthereby:

Fig. 18 is a plan view of the standard with one of said pointers. Fig.19 shows a carrier with mold-wires set for drafting the upper half ofthe sleeve, (from shoulder to elbow;) and Fig. 20 shows a carrier withwires set for drafting the lower half of the sleeve. Fig. 21 illustratesa mode of applying contour-lines obtained by the mold-Wires to a planesurface. Figs. 22, 23, 24, 25, and 26 represent patterns or templetsdrafted by marking or tracing the lines traversed by the mold-wires on aplane surface or pattern-sheet. Fig. 27 is a horizontal section of theupper part'of the sleeve at the scye; Fig. 28, a horizontal section atthe elbow; and Figs. 29 and 30 represent half-sections of the sleeve atthe wrist and elbow, respectively. Figs. 31 and 32 illustrate the modeof drafting the pattern for the hip portion of a skirt.

By my improved method and apparatus it is possible to take themeasurement of any kind of garment, and it will be understood that thespecific habiliments illustrated herein are for explanatory purposesonly and do not indicate any limitation of application.

The manner of taking measurements or applying the mold-wires ,to theperson or figure being fitted is represented in Figs. 1 and. 2.Preferably the person or figure stands with the back to avertical rod orstaff C, Figs. 2 and 17 which is mounted .on a fixed standard A throughan arm or connecting-piece B, by means of which said rod can be adjustedboth vertically and horizontally. Aseries of pins or indicators H workin transverse holes in this rod G, and they may be secured in place byset-screws K, Fig. 18. These pins are adjusted so that their pointsconform to the curve of the back, as shown in Fig. 2, and they indicatethe relative vertical positions of points at the back on the lines orplanes on or about which the-mold-wire measurements are taken from thefigure being fitted, the wires being molded to the figure on thehorizontal curves indicated by said pins or on other suitable curves nothorizontal, as at the collar and shoulder. In bending or shaping themold-wires around the body of the figure care should be taken to keepthem parallel and approximately horizontal to the vertical rod or staffC, and to insure this double-jointed pointers or indicators, Figs. 17and 18, are pivotally secured to lugs D on the rod C, said pointersextending horizontally and consisting each of three jointed members E,F, and G. These pointers indicate at the front of the figure placeswhich correspond as' to horizontal position with the points indicated bythe pins H at the back. It is not essential that the pointers should beset exactly in the same horizontal planes in which the mold wiremeasurements are taken. They are intended only to act as indicators ofpoints in horizontal planes.

In Figs. 1 and 2 the mold-wires are shown molded about the figure onsuitable curves at the collar and shoulder and on horizontal curves atthe breast, waist, hip, and lower edge of the coat, and plans of thewires so molded are shown in Figs. 3 to 8, inclusive, which have alreadybeen explained. Any suitable means, if desired, may be employed forholding the Wires in proper relative positions either on or off thefigure after they are molded, though this is not essential, since thewires may be molded one at a time and placed aside, and afterward theymay easily be arranged in exactly the same positions occupied when firstmolded on or around the figure by reference to the pins or indicators Hand the double-jointed pointers, for it is obvious that by placing therear end of any mold-wire at the point of the proper pin or indicator Hand the front end of said wire at the point of the member Gr of thecorresponding pointer, said points having been properly set beforemeasuring the figure, the mold-wire thus arranged will represent thecorresponding contour-line of the figure, and by similarly arranging anadjacent'mold-wire the relative positions and proper distances of thetwo wires may be obtained. Of course the wires may be molded on thefigure without tion ofthe invention adjacent pairs of the mold-wires arearranged in marking carriers or frames which hold them 1n their properrelative posltlons, said carriers having sultable devices to grip orhold the wires, which devices may be adjusted to hold wires of differentmolds and lengths and occupying different relative positions. Eachcarrier, containing two adjacent mold-wires set in the same relativepositions as the corresponding conrio tour curves,is thenapplied to thepattern-sheet in such manner as to trace the outlines of the V templetor section of the figure included between said adjacent wires onto saidpatternsheet. This may be accomplished by bending the pattern-sheetaround the wires and'marking their lines thereon or by rolling thecarrier on the pattern-sheet so as to cause the adjacent wires totraverse it from end to end and marking or penciling the linestraversed. The pattern-sheet is afterward out along those lines to formthe templet or pattern for that section of the garment included betweenthe contour-lines represented by the adjacent mold-wires arranged in thecarrier. Fig. 21

carrier, with its wires, over the pattern-sheet.

The general construction of an eflicient form of carrier is illustratedin Figs. 11,12,15, and 16. This carrier, which is designed especiallyfor holding mold-wires used for body measurements, consists of a bar orred 0, having two sleeves S adjustable or slidable thereon and securedin place by set-screws or other means and a suitable member or series ofadjustable or extensible arms radiating from each sleeve and carrying attheir ends springclips U or other devices adapted to grasp themold-wires. As shown, said adjustable arms consist of tubular parts S,extending from the sleeves S and stems T, telescopically fitted thereinand provided with the spring-clips. Said stems T slide in the tubularparts with a little friction, so that while they are easily adj ustableyet they are sufiiciently tight to hold the molded wires in properposition while the curves are being traced on the pattern-sheet. Thecarrier here shown is formed to hold only a half-loop or semicircularmold-wire, the outermost arms thereof extending in opposite directions,it being remembered that the moldwires are fitted to one half-sectiononly of the body of the person or figure. Figs. 11 and 12, which areplan and perspective views, respectivel y, show the mold-wire for the'breast curve held by the upper clips and the moldwire for the waistcurve held by the lower clips.

Figs. 9 and 10 illustrate in side and plan view, respectively, a carrierfor the collar and shoulder mold-wires which is of somewhat differentconstruction from that described. It consists of a member D with tubularparts F radiating therefrom and having telescopically fitted thereinstems E provided with clips to hold the shoulder-wire, the outermost andcentral tubular parts F also having at their ends upright or right-angletubular parts with stems G adjustable therein and provided with clips tohold the collar-wire. However, the form of carrier shown in Figs. 15 and16 could be used.

Fig. 13 is a side view of a carrier holding the shoulder and breastwires, together with an attachment for marking the scye or armhole,which is shown in plan in Fig. 14. This attachment consists of anadjustable or telescopic arm or stem V, extending from a sleeve orslider \V on the bar 0 intermediate sliders S and carrying a hubY,having a universal movement, (ball, socket, and set-screw Z,) fromwhich hub radiate a series of adjustable stems or arms X, with clips tohold the scye-wire a complete loop or circle. The clips are set so thatthe scye-wire will occupy its proper position relatively to the shoulderand breast wires, as in the figure being fitted. Afurther adjustment forthis same purpose is obtained by mounting arm V adjustably on a crossarmA, extending from slider 7 as shown in Fig. 14.

Fig. 19 shows a suitable carrier with wires for drafting the upper halfof a sleeve, the

same consisting of a tubular part L with stems telescopically fittedtherein carrying at their ends series of radiating adjustable arms withclips for holding the mold-wires for the scye and the elbow, said seriesof arms radiating from balls fitted in sockets on the stem for universalmovement, set-screws N being provided for fixing each series of arms inposition.

Fig. 20 shows a carrier with wires set for drafting the lower part ofthe sleeve, this consisting of a bar 0 with sliders or sleeves P thereonhaving set-screws Q, said sliders having adjustable arms R radiatingtherefrom with clips for holding the elbow and wristdrafting a templetor section of the pattern.

for a skirt'is identical in construction with the carrier shown in Fig.20.

Molds having been taken with the flexible strips or mold-wires in themanner indicated in Figs. 1 and 2, the mold-wires are then arranged intheir respective marking carriers or frames. First, the collar andshoulder wires are fixed in their proper carrier, which is rolled overor applied to the pattern-sheet, so as to cause the two Wires to passlengthwise or from end to end over the sheet, the lines thus transversedbeing penciled, chalked, or otherwise marked. The marked piece ortemplet 1, Fig. 23, is then cut out. The ends of said templet are ofcourse determined by the adjacent ends of the lines marked ortransversed by the mold-wires. Then the shoulder, breast, and scye wiresare arranged in their carrier, which is rolled over the pattern-sheet inthe same way, and the piece or templet 2 is thus marked off and cut out.

Next the breast and waist mold-wires are fixed in a carrier and thepiece 3 is obtained thereby. Then the piece 1 is obtained by the waistand hip mold-wires, and so on. The several pieces so obtained areassembled in proper vertical order, as shown in Fig. 23, the relativepositions thereof being determined by reference to pins or indicators H.The pieces may then be cut vertically or transversely by the cutter insuch lines as his experience directs and fixed in place, as shown inFig. 22, and the adjacent vertical edges of the superposed pieces may besuitably joined, whereby the usual vertical templets conforming to theparts between vertical seamlines of the garment are obtained. Informinga pattern for the sleeves the arms M, which hold the scye-wiresof the carrier shown in the sleeve is desired to stand out from the bodyof the coat, and the arms for the elbow- 35 habits and which may be usedto obtain patwire are adjusted so that they radiate from the holder L atabout right angles thereto. The carrier is then rolled over thepatternsheet, as usual, and the pattern-piece for the upper part of thesleeve is thus obtained. The pattern-piece for the lower half is draftedby rolling over the pattern-sheet the carrier shown in Fig. 20 with theelbow and wrist mold-wires properly arranged. These two pieces are thenplaced together to form the whole sleeve-pattern, giving the length ofthe sleeve and widths of scye, elbow, and wrist. The seam-outlines aremarked off by the cutter according to his experience.

It is practically immaterial to the operation of the main part ofthe'invention what mechanical devices are adopted for retaining orsupporting the mold-wires While the lines reproduced by them aretransferred to a sheet, and I therefore do not restrict myself to thespecial devices herein described to be used therefor, nor is it materialby what process the lines traced by the wires are reproduced on thepattern-sheet. They may be traced as described, or the wires may beinked and made to print lines, or they may be made to make impressedlines, in which last-mention ed case a glazed paper is used, the glazedsurface of which will become clearly marked where it is impressedagainst the mold-wires. According to an alternative arrangement which Iprefer to use in making patterns for ladies terns of horizontal andother sections of a garment the wires are made to delineate the patternwhile they are in sz'tu on the figures. This is accomplished by using asensitive paper for the pattern-sheet, laying it onto the figure overthe mold-wires, connecting the moldwires to one terminal of an electricbattery whose other terminal is connected to a handplate, and moving thehand-plate over the sensitive pattern-sheet where it overlies themold-wires, whereby the passage of the current through the sheet isfacilitated and visible lines produced by the chemical change broughtabout by the electrolytic action. Such a sensitive sheet consists ofordinary absorbent paper kept damp and saturated with somesubstancewhose color will change when it is electrolyzed. Such a substance mightconsist'of a vegetable coloring-matter and common salt. When the currentpasses, the electrolysis of the salt produces free chlorin, whichbleaches the color and leaves a white or pale line. The marked pieces soproduced are manipulated in the manner already described.

Though only the drafting of a coat and skirt section has been described,it will be fully clear that the system and apparatus may be applied todrafting patterns for trousers, dresses, and other garments.

By the term mold-wires I refer to any suitable strips or elongatedpieces of flexible or pliable material adapted to be molded readilyaround the curves of the figure and to retain the shapes impartedthereto sufiiciently for the purpose of my invention. Lead strips orwires of suflicient hardness and thickness to retain their forms areadmirably adapted for this purpose. Care should be exercised not to bendthe mold-wires out of shape after theyhave been removed from the figure.

Having thus fully described my invention, what I claim as new, anddesire to secure by Letters Patent of the United States, is

l. Drafting garment-patterns by reproducs ing contour curves of thefigure in mold-wires, arranging and maintaining said wires in the samerelation as the contour curves which they represent, and deriving on aplane surface templets or pattern-sections from adjacent wires.

2. Drafting garment-patterns by reproducing contour curves of the figurein mold-wires, arranging and maintaining said wires in the same relationas the contour curves which they represent, applying them in suchrelation to a pattern-sheet so as to indicate thereon the outlines ofthe templet or garment-section included between adjacent wires, andmarking said sheet on the lines indicated.

3. Drafting garment patterns by fitting mold-wires or the like to thefigure on certain transverse curves, arranging and maintaining pairs ofadjacent wires in the same relation occupied thereby when molded on thefigure, applying each pair of adjacent wires in such position to apattern-sheet so as to trace thereon the outlines of the templet orgarmentsection included between said wires or the cor-. respondingcontour-lines, and assembling the several templets so obtained in properrelation.

4. Drafting the templet or pattern-piece of a horizontal section of agarment by molding wires on the contour curves ofthe upper and loweredges of the section of the figure to be fitted, mounting said wires insuch manner as to preserve the same relation as said contour curves, andthen applying said wires in such relation to the pattern-sheet so as totrace the edges of said templet.

5 The improved method of drafting gar-. ment patterns which consists inobtaining horizontal or transverse templets of the figure to bereproduced, arranging these templets.

6. Drafting the pattern of a transverse secto this specification in thepresence of two subtion of a garlment by fitting mold-wires to thescribing witnesses. edges of saic section, setting a pattern-sheet '1 Jover said wires in situ, and electrochemically ARD (JURRAN' 5 marking onsaid sheet the lines of contact of \Vitnesses:

said wires. WV. I. SPENSOR, Intestimonywhereoflhave signedmyname WV. J.DAVIS.

